Saturday, October 31, 2009

Into Thin Air

Happy Halloween from Cusco, Peru! After an ungodly early flight from Lima, we arrived in Cusco at the wonderful hour of 6am. We then promptly got dropped at the wrong hostel right next to a construction site. Wearing sour faces, we managed to get the owner of our hostel to retrieve us. With barely a moment's glance around Southern Comfort Hostel (So-Co for the drinkers out there), we fell into our bunks. Later, we got lost on our way to explore the city center, though on the plus side we saw some untracked parts of Cusco. This city is wildly different from Lima as it's busy, bustling and full of international travelers. At 11,000 feet, we can feel the altitude with every step up (which are most steps, given that this city is nestled in the mountains).

After exploring Cusco's Plaza de Armas and surrounding streets, we settled for a long lunch at a restaurant called Greens. For our Bay Area readers, Cusco's Greens is exactly like the version in San Francisco, albeit vegetable empanadas replace polenta and vegetable spreads. Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoyed the abundance of vegetables and other fiber-rich foods. As time is of the essence, these are our latest highlights:

1. Hiking UP to the Saqsaywaman Inca ruins a mile outside of Cusco. Reminiscent of the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan and elsewhere in Central America, they're mountain-top location afforded excellent 360 views of Cusco. Indiginous women and children flocked this tourist mecca with their alpacas in tow.

2. And then we ate alpaca for lunch...Surprisingly unlike goat in flavor, the texture was certainly tough and sinewy. Prepared in a stew alongside rice, tubers and potatoes, the overall effect was almost delicious, though not as unfavorable as one might expect.

3. One of the perks of our hostel is an Anj and Dev sized bathroom. So for the rest of you tall people, it would feel like a trip down the rabbit hole; to us, it's a perfect fit. However, all was not well in paradise - the altitude caused all our lotions to inflate so Devon tragically sprayed one of Anjali's few outfits with lotion. And then there was the surprise in the toilet...Needless to say, we've spent some time in the normal-sized bathroom since then.

4. Last night we went to the Museo de Nativos to see a traditional dance and music performance. Though many women throughout Cusco wear traditional clothes - emboidered, vibrantly colored skirts and full brimmed hats - it was fun to see a typical Cuscenan dance that has been passed down for generations.

We're off in search of some semblance of Halloween festivities, though reportedly there is a Halloween party at our hostel as spiderwebs and black and orange balloons are suddenly appearing all around us...

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

We´re not in Kansas anymore...

We have arrived safely in Lima, no major gliches!

Our first stop was a layover in San Salvador for 7 long hours. The time crept by slowly until we met some downhill longboarders from LA who promptly introduced themselves as they were as bored as we were, and happened to be the only other people in the airport. We enterained ourselves by learning odd acrobatic poses, dancing and "learning" to skate.

After another uncomfortable experience on a TACA flight, we landed in Lima, where we were picked up and driven to our hostel, Hostel Kokopelli. We got the lay of the land, grabbed a bite, and met up with Emily.

Since our arrival, we´ve toured the city via walking, biking and running and eaten some incredible, local ceviche, octopus and chicha (juice made from blue corn). We visited Lima´s catacombs in a Franciscan monastery complete with sorted bones (femurs in one section, pelvic bones in another) and skulls. Dead LimeƱos were buried here a couple hundred years ago so it essentially served as the city´s graveyard, albeit underground. Our friendly tour guide let us take pictures when there were no other tours around so we can share photos of skulls in a mandala-like pattern!

We have decided to include a highlights reel in our blog, so here´s the ¨best of¨so far...

1. Devon bikes into a wall and scrapes paint off with handlebar. Sustains no injuries; the wall doesn´t fare so well.

2. After a lovely run along the Lima coastline, things get moving in the digestive system (finally!) and Devon belines for the bathroom upon returning to the hostel. Unbenounced to her, a hostel worker is in the next stall and is blown away by the powerful stench produced by such a small person. "I´m telling the whole hostel," were his parting words. Devon mortified, Anjali jealous.

3. Best catcall so far: 5 year old boy watches us bike by and says, incredulously, "Wowwwwww."

4. Best food: ceviche with fresh avocado on top, eaten at a local joint we´d never have found on our own.

5. New taste highlight: Pisco sours made by Paulo, an owner of Hostel Kokopelli. This is the national drink of Peru made from egg whites, Pisco (a clear alcohol made from grapes), simple syrup and a dash of bitters. Stroooong. And that´s all we remember.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Our UPDATED itinerary

The list..... Peru, Argentina, through Brazil to South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Egypt, India, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, through Hong Kong back to San Francisco.