Worst day thus far

Topping the list...leaving Argentina and attempting to enter Sao Paulo. Our catastrophes were as follows:

1. Devon gets in taxi cab and Anjali is left in the hostel wondering where her travel partner has disappeared to. And the problems begin.

2. We pay for an expensive cab ride to Argentina's international airport where we look for the airline "P. Luna" carrying our massive backpacks and precious alfahores. After asking around, not only did we discover that our airline is, in fact, called "Pluna," but that we were also at the WRONG airport. Apparently flying to Brazil is not considered international.

3. Upon arrival at the domestic airport, we realize that our flight is actually an hour EARLIER than we had anticipated and we are in serious danger of missing it.

4. Although we were surprised to actually make it out of Argentine and into Montevideo, Uruguay, our layover, our troubles had only begun. After her extensive tour of South American bathrooms, Anjali still found herself struggling to get out of the stall. Finding herself stuck, she hollered to Devon for help. Since Devon's Pu-no days were over, Anjali then had to wait for her rescuer to finish up and release her.

5. With far too many stresses for one day, we decide that coffee is our only remedy. However, we are then faced with currency conversions and how much breakfast we can actually afford. The language barrier posing a problem, we attempt to purchase too much and, with a daunting line forming behind us, are forced to return most of it. Of course the coffee was terrible.

6. We make it to Sao Paulo! Success! Spoken much too soon...after a very expensive and alarmingly long cab ride, we find ourselves in the wrong city on a street with the same name as the one we are looking for. Who knew we had to specify the zip code when ordering our taxi even though we clearly showed our Hostelworld printout with the full address...Having now paid for two unnecessary taxis in one day, we are approximately a million dollars behind budget.

7. We eat pizza, drink wine and indulge in 3 alfahores, though we swore we'd save them for Africa when we'd really need them.

Argentina - Living like queens

Argentina: November 18-December 6.

Argentina was an instant change of pace from Peru. Upon arrival, we employed Ava - Anjali's sister, who studied abroad in Buenos Aires this past semester - to be our tour guide, beginning with an outstanding meal at La Cabrera. A food lover's dream, this culinary indulgence began with complimentary champagne and chorizo as we waited for a table amidst a large crowd of a hundred watering mouths. Dinner included incredible steaks accompanied by a variety of sauces and side dishes washed down with a bottle of Trapiche Malbec. The week continued with an abundance of fabulous meals, great drinks, raucous night clubs that lasted until the wee hours of the morning, and some healthy sight-seeing around the city. We ventured outside BsAs to Iguazu Falls where we were thoroughly doused in water as we traveled, Indiana Jones style, to the bottom of the Falls. We spent the day walking around the park, finishing at La Garganta del Diablo, (The Devil's Mouth), a massive whirlpool that is arguably the most impressive sight in the park. Although the town of Iguazu was less than impressive, our hostel was more like a resort.

Back in the city, we celebrated Thanksgiving in our lovely apartment in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. Though we had to settle for chicken instead of turkey, we cooked all day and produced an extensive feast including stuffing (with chorizo!), sweet potatoes and apple pie topped with dulce de leche. We enjoyed the leftovers for the next few days...After showing us the best of Buenos Aires, Ava departed and we left for a few days in Mendoza. For two days we biked through vineyards, enjoying a number of wineries and tasting all sorts of wines, liquors, cheeses, olives and chocolates. Although challenging at times, our biking was much improved as we sustained no injuries and Devon did not crash into a wall (even after a dose of absinthe!)We returned to the city and finished off our to-do list, including visiting the modern art museum, La Boca neighborhood, and of course returning to our favorite local parilla, Des Nivel, while staying at our old haunt (from 4 years ago), Tango Backpackers. In short, we adore Argentina and can't wait to return in another 4 years. Or move here permanently.

Best of Argentina:

1. Best hostel - aside from our incredible BsAs apartment, Hostel Inn at Iguazu Falls for its free towels, large pool, parilla and Carnival-style Brazilian show, during which we were invited on stage by a woman clothed in an elaborate thong. We politely declined.

2. Best restaurant - a tie between the posh La Cabrera and perfectly Argentine Des Nivel

3. Best new taste - Trapiche Malbec, Cachavaz alfahores (dulce de leche cookies - so good we bought some for the road) and humito (corn) empanadas

4. Best adventure - biking through Mendoza tipsy off of fine wine and absinthe that we sampled at 11am, and Gran Aventura in Iguazu, drenched by thousands of liters of water

5. Location to return to - Buenos Aires! (for the third time)

6. Best cultural experience - staying up for 24 hours, clubbing with Argentines and watching the sunrise over the water at Caix, a club that stays open until 12pm

7. Best "we're so American" experience - trying to buy a turkey in a BA supermarket and being laughed at, so making stuffing with chorizo, apple pie with dulce de leche and drinking sangria. Just your traditional Argentine Thanksgiving food.

8. Best bar - Milion (mansion converted into posh bar) for Kir Royales and basil daquiris

9. Best local fashion - the rat tail, as sported by both men and women

10. Best reason to never be a vegetarian - Argentine steak for breakfast, steak for lunch, steak for dinner. We watched a vegetarian of 15 years lose her resolution over a carne empanada. Who needs vegetables when the cows are grass fed?

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Adios Peru

Having learned the hard way which bus companies to trust, we had a much more successful ride to Arequipa from Puno. In short, we toured Arequipa, trekked in Colca Canyon and returned to Lima via Cusco. Back in Lima, we began saying our goodbyes to Peru including dining on Lima´s finest culinary offerings. We actually enjoyed anticuchos - grilled cow hearts on a stick - as well as more ceviche and fish dishes at local joints. Accompanied by Paulo, one of the owners of our hostel, we got the local scoop on what to do and, most importantly, what to eat. To conclude our Peruvian adventure, we have compiled a ¨Best Of¨ list...

1. Best hostel: Hostel Kokopelli in Lima

2. Best restaurant: ceviche in Lima at a hole-in-the-wall market stand in Barranco neighborhood

3. Best new taste: the surprisingly delicious anticuchos

4. Best adventure: Machu Picchu trek, obviously

5. Best new friend/local resource: Paulo (our BFF from Hostel Kokopelli)

6. Location to return to: Cusco and the Inca trail

7. Best cultural experience: meals with our homestay family on Isla Amantani, Lago Titicaca

8. Best "we´re so American" experience: bus to Arequipa from Cabanaconde (Colca Canyon) - zero personal space, lots of jostling, and a rendition of "Happy Birthday" playing on the radio

9. Best bar: Kokopelli´s bar and Paulo´s spicy pisco cocktail

10. Best local fashion: Amantani ensemble complete with embroidered blouses, skirts, jackets, belts and shawls

Poo-no OR Poo, no!...full disclosure

Our see and do all tour of Peru continued with an uncomfortable bus ride from Cusco to Puno. Unfortunately, we were completely misled and found ourselves on a completely different bus than what we signed up for. As usual, the bus left at an ungodly early hour and, powerless in our post-trek state of deliriousness, we were stuck in this unpleasant situation. After the four hours we were told it would take to get to Puno came and went, we were relieved to finally catch sight of Puno and Lago Titicaca. However, our adventure had just begun...because our bus abruptly side-swiped a mini-van and further confusion ensued. The large bus sustained no injuries; the modestly sized South American style mini-van did not fare as well...

We fled the bus terminal as quickly as possible, cursing the San Luis company as we went, and made our way to Hospedaje Virgen de Copacabana. Though Lonely Planet described this hostel as charming and quaint, when Emily asked us from the taxi how the hostel looked, the only word that came to mind was ¨dilapidated¨. Once inside, we found an odd collection of Cabbage Patch style dolls with a surprising Christmas theme. The owner was a kind older woman, but we felt like we were staying with a friend´s (quirky) great aunt.

Skipping ahead, the next day we set off for a two day tour of Lago Titicaca that included three islands: Uros, Amantani and Taquile. Uros is the famed collection of floating island with a foundation made of reeds. Walking on the cushy reeds is like stepping on a large sponge; we amused ourselves by bouncing around and trying on the local fashions complete with embroidered skirt, hat and blouse. Later that afternoon we sailed to Amantani for an overnight with a local family. We were met by Liz, the 15 year old daughter of the island´s leader, who prepared us a delicious lunch of quinoa soup, potatoes and queso fresca (Peru´s favorite, and only, cheese) accompanied by a vegetable medley, followed by muña tea (similar to mint and equally refreshing). We hiked to the top of the island to see the ruins of a temple to Pachamama and watch the sun set over the Lake. Once again we were forced to adapt our lesbian couple persona as we found ourselves in such a quintissentially romantic situation. To complicate matters, we could hardly force our muscles to walk the relatively short path to the top of the island after four days of the Inca´s version of the stairmaster. Back at the house, we met the rest of our host family and dined in their tight kitchen consisting of a hole in the dirt wall filled with kindling and iron pots boiling over with a Peruvian version of chicken noodle soup and quinoa. We enjoyed this along with rice (again) and a Spanish-style tortilla, akin to our notion of an omelette. Our hosts took us to a ¨fiesta" where we were dressed up in traditional Amantani skirts, blouses, jackets, elaborate belts (much more like a corset) and shawl head covering. Escorted by Emily, our hombre, we arrived at the dance in style. Four men played traditional live music as we were loosely taught a folk dance that involved ferocious pulling and turning across the dance floor. Thoroughly exhausted, we fell into bed after 20 minutes of removing clothing and another 10 minutes of navigating our way to the outhouse style bathroom that was quite a distance from the main building. It consisted of a stone basin that for all intents and purposes did not appear to flush, thus garnering our sympathy for whomever got the lucky job of dealing with our ever-present digestive issues.

Day 2 of our Lake tour began with hearty pancakes, a swift goodbye to the family, and a boat ride to Taquile. As the most touristy island, Taquile felt much more economically stable and commercial. Our guide took us to lunch where we feasted on trucha (trout) and learned about...um...the local population? Too much dramamine...

We returned to Puno with a renewed sense of how different our world is and bought bus tickets to Arequipa for the next chapter of our Peruvian adventure.

Highlights reel:

1. As our title suggests, our respective digestive systems had reactions to Puno spanning both ends of the spectrum. Once again, Anjali spent her time touring Puno´s "bathrooms", toilet paper in hand, while Devon jealously waited outside.

2. Unfortunately, Anjali can never return to Puno because, on one of many bathroom exits, she managed to tuck her skirt attractively into her hefty travel underwear. Though Devon tried to give a girl a hand, the situation could not be remedied. Free show. We need to start charging.

3. On our island tour, we met 5 Spanish women of various ages traveling together through Peru. In conversing with them, they gave us the inspiration and hope to continue traveling with friends in the future.

4. To make our mothers proud, we performed a series of yoga poses for Emily´s timed camera in front of the setting sun and Pachamama´s ruins. We elicited many stares from the other tourists. Free show. We need to start charging.

5. We upgraded bus companies and made it to Arequipa sans accident. Goodbye Puno, forever Poo-no in Devon´s mind.

Realm of the gods

After being somewhat disconnected from the world of technology for the past 2 weeks, it is difficult to get back into it. Now back in Lima we have many stories.....

Our adventure begins somewhat abruptly in Cusco on the morning of the 3rd when both set alarms failed to go off and our Machu Picchu tour guide was forced to wake us up. Needless to say we got off to a rocky start, though alls well that ends well. The trek was incredible. The first day was rather mild as we adjusted to the trail, the alititude, got more acquainted with our group of 6 others, and took in the stunning views of cloud draped mountains. Day 2 was described as the most challenging and held up its reputation. Not only was it 3 and a half hours up slick stone steps but it began to pour and we quickly became a soggy wet mess, despite our brightly colored ponchos that in theory covered both us and our packs, making us look like turtles, but in practice left something to be desired. Though seemingly a disappointment, the rain added to the magical ambiance of the mountains, while enhancing the surrounding greenery. Trekking the Inca Trail is definitely a privileged experience. Though we carried our own packs, we had 12 porters accompanying our group who jettisoned ahead and set up camp, complete with coca tea and snacks awaiting our arrival. That being said, the food was awesome. Dare we say, gourmet considering we were on a camping trip. Each meal included several courses, for instance we usually started with a hearty soup, followed by a plate full of meat, rice and vegetables, finishing with dessert and tea. Exactly what we needed to maintain energy for 7 hours of hiking. Day 3 finished early at a campsite complete with showers, a restaurant and remarkable ruins, Wiñawayna, which set the stage for what was to come the next day. Day 4 we awoke at 3:45 am in order to beat the crowds at Machu Picchu. Though grueling, it was more than worth it. Upon arrival at the Sun Gate, thick clouds engulfed both us and the ancient city. We waited patiently fearful that our postcard worthy view would not reveal itself. But, Pachamama was smiling down on us and the clouds parted. The view is more spectacular than we imagined. And though a picture is worth a thousand words, the postcards hardly do it justice. Our guide Jime (sounds like Jimmy) gave us a very informative tour of the entire city before giving us free time to roam.

In retrospect, Machu Picchu is certainly the main highlight thus far. However, our whirlwind tour of southern Peru provided other eye-opening experiences. Stay tuned....

Highlights reel:

1. It turns out, we seemed to be on a couples retreat to Machu Picchu. Thus, we were forced to establish our own status as a couple for a few days. We´ll stop the joke here. The dirty version of our blog can be found at www.trekkingonpenniesxxx.blogspot.com

2. Digestive issues still reigned prominant in our lives. While Anjali couldnt find enough bathrooms, Devon never went. Though initially, the cloud cover surrounding Machu Picchu was distressing, it did allow Devon to relieve herself not 10 feet from where the group sat.

3. Our appetites wetted after seeing baked bananas on a menu in Cusco, our trek chef seemingly read our minds and prepared indivually fried bananas that came flaming to our plates.

4. After 4 days of constantly seeing alpacas along the trail, we were a little jaded. We were too cavalier in our beliefs. One alpaca took it upon itself to keep us in check and charged Devon in the middle of the ancient city. Luckily, no injuries sustained (except pride given the girlish shriek that escaped Devon´s lips).


5. We survived the Inca Trail, as the t-shirts say, and lived to tell the tale...

Into Thin Air

Happy Halloween from Cusco, Peru! After an ungodly early flight from Lima, we arrived in Cusco at the wonderful hour of 6am. We then promptly got dropped at the wrong hostel right next to a construction site. Wearing sour faces, we managed to get the owner of our hostel to retrieve us. With barely a moment's glance around Southern Comfort Hostel (So-Co for the drinkers out there), we fell into our bunks. Later, we got lost on our way to explore the city center, though on the plus side we saw some untracked parts of Cusco. This city is wildly different from Lima as it's busy, bustling and full of international travelers. At 11,000 feet, we can feel the altitude with every step up (which are most steps, given that this city is nestled in the mountains).

After exploring Cusco's Plaza de Armas and surrounding streets, we settled for a long lunch at a restaurant called Greens. For our Bay Area readers, Cusco's Greens is exactly like the version in San Francisco, albeit vegetable empanadas replace polenta and vegetable spreads. Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoyed the abundance of vegetables and other fiber-rich foods. As time is of the essence, these are our latest highlights:

1. Hiking UP to the Saqsaywaman Inca ruins a mile outside of Cusco. Reminiscent of the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan and elsewhere in Central America, they're mountain-top location afforded excellent 360 views of Cusco. Indiginous women and children flocked this tourist mecca with their alpacas in tow.

2. And then we ate alpaca for lunch...Surprisingly unlike goat in flavor, the texture was certainly tough and sinewy. Prepared in a stew alongside rice, tubers and potatoes, the overall effect was almost delicious, though not as unfavorable as one might expect.

3. One of the perks of our hostel is an Anj and Dev sized bathroom. So for the rest of you tall people, it would feel like a trip down the rabbit hole; to us, it's a perfect fit. However, all was not well in paradise - the altitude caused all our lotions to inflate so Devon tragically sprayed one of Anjali's few outfits with lotion. And then there was the surprise in the toilet...Needless to say, we've spent some time in the normal-sized bathroom since then.

4. Last night we went to the Museo de Nativos to see a traditional dance and music performance. Though many women throughout Cusco wear traditional clothes - emboidered, vibrantly colored skirts and full brimmed hats - it was fun to see a typical Cuscenan dance that has been passed down for generations.

We're off in search of some semblance of Halloween festivities, though reportedly there is a Halloween party at our hostel as spiderwebs and black and orange balloons are suddenly appearing all around us...

We´re not in Kansas anymore...

We have arrived safely in Lima, no major gliches!

Our first stop was a layover in San Salvador for 7 long hours. The time crept by slowly until we met some downhill longboarders from LA who promptly introduced themselves as they were as bored as we were, and happened to be the only other people in the airport. We enterained ourselves by learning odd acrobatic poses, dancing and "learning" to skate.

After another uncomfortable experience on a TACA flight, we landed in Lima, where we were picked up and driven to our hostel, Hostel Kokopelli. We got the lay of the land, grabbed a bite, and met up with Emily.

Since our arrival, we´ve toured the city via walking, biking and running and eaten some incredible, local ceviche, octopus and chicha (juice made from blue corn). We visited Lima´s catacombs in a Franciscan monastery complete with sorted bones (femurs in one section, pelvic bones in another) and skulls. Dead Limeños were buried here a couple hundred years ago so it essentially served as the city´s graveyard, albeit underground. Our friendly tour guide let us take pictures when there were no other tours around so we can share photos of skulls in a mandala-like pattern!

We have decided to include a highlights reel in our blog, so here´s the ¨best of¨so far...

1. Devon bikes into a wall and scrapes paint off with handlebar. Sustains no injuries; the wall doesn´t fare so well.

2. After a lovely run along the Lima coastline, things get moving in the digestive system (finally!) and Devon belines for the bathroom upon returning to the hostel. Unbenounced to her, a hostel worker is in the next stall and is blown away by the powerful stench produced by such a small person. "I´m telling the whole hostel," were his parting words. Devon mortified, Anjali jealous.

3. Best catcall so far: 5 year old boy watches us bike by and says, incredulously, "Wowwwwww."

4. Best food: ceviche with fresh avocado on top, eaten at a local joint we´d never have found on our own.

5. New taste highlight: Pisco sours made by Paulo, an owner of Hostel Kokopelli. This is the national drink of Peru made from egg whites, Pisco (a clear alcohol made from grapes), simple syrup and a dash of bitters. Stroooong. And that´s all we remember.

Our UPDATED itinerary

The list..... Peru, Argentina, through Brazil to South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Egypt, India, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, through Hong Kong back to San Francisco.