Argentina - Living like queens

Argentina: November 18-December 6.

Argentina was an instant change of pace from Peru. Upon arrival, we employed Ava - Anjali's sister, who studied abroad in Buenos Aires this past semester - to be our tour guide, beginning with an outstanding meal at La Cabrera. A food lover's dream, this culinary indulgence began with complimentary champagne and chorizo as we waited for a table amidst a large crowd of a hundred watering mouths. Dinner included incredible steaks accompanied by a variety of sauces and side dishes washed down with a bottle of Trapiche Malbec. The week continued with an abundance of fabulous meals, great drinks, raucous night clubs that lasted until the wee hours of the morning, and some healthy sight-seeing around the city. We ventured outside BsAs to Iguazu Falls where we were thoroughly doused in water as we traveled, Indiana Jones style, to the bottom of the Falls. We spent the day walking around the park, finishing at La Garganta del Diablo, (The Devil's Mouth), a massive whirlpool that is arguably the most impressive sight in the park. Although the town of Iguazu was less than impressive, our hostel was more like a resort.

Back in the city, we celebrated Thanksgiving in our lovely apartment in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. Though we had to settle for chicken instead of turkey, we cooked all day and produced an extensive feast including stuffing (with chorizo!), sweet potatoes and apple pie topped with dulce de leche. We enjoyed the leftovers for the next few days...After showing us the best of Buenos Aires, Ava departed and we left for a few days in Mendoza. For two days we biked through vineyards, enjoying a number of wineries and tasting all sorts of wines, liquors, cheeses, olives and chocolates. Although challenging at times, our biking was much improved as we sustained no injuries and Devon did not crash into a wall (even after a dose of absinthe!)We returned to the city and finished off our to-do list, including visiting the modern art museum, La Boca neighborhood, and of course returning to our favorite local parilla, Des Nivel, while staying at our old haunt (from 4 years ago), Tango Backpackers. In short, we adore Argentina and can't wait to return in another 4 years. Or move here permanently.

Best of Argentina:

1. Best hostel - aside from our incredible BsAs apartment, Hostel Inn at Iguazu Falls for its free towels, large pool, parilla and Carnival-style Brazilian show, during which we were invited on stage by a woman clothed in an elaborate thong. We politely declined.

2. Best restaurant - a tie between the posh La Cabrera and perfectly Argentine Des Nivel

3. Best new taste - Trapiche Malbec, Cachavaz alfahores (dulce de leche cookies - so good we bought some for the road) and humito (corn) empanadas

4. Best adventure - biking through Mendoza tipsy off of fine wine and absinthe that we sampled at 11am, and Gran Aventura in Iguazu, drenched by thousands of liters of water

5. Location to return to - Buenos Aires! (for the third time)

6. Best cultural experience - staying up for 24 hours, clubbing with Argentines and watching the sunrise over the water at Caix, a club that stays open until 12pm

7. Best "we're so American" experience - trying to buy a turkey in a BA supermarket and being laughed at, so making stuffing with chorizo, apple pie with dulce de leche and drinking sangria. Just your traditional Argentine Thanksgiving food.

8. Best bar - Milion (mansion converted into posh bar) for Kir Royales and basil daquiris

9. Best local fashion - the rat tail, as sported by both men and women

10. Best reason to never be a vegetarian - Argentine steak for breakfast, steak for lunch, steak for dinner. We watched a vegetarian of 15 years lose her resolution over a carne empanada. Who needs vegetables when the cows are grass fed?