Topping the list...leaving Argentina and attempting to enter Sao Paulo. Our catastrophes were as follows:
1. Devon gets in taxi cab and Anjali is left in the hostel wondering where her travel partner has disappeared to. And the problems begin.
2. We pay for an expensive cab ride to Argentina's international airport where we look for the airline "P. Luna" carrying our massive backpacks and precious alfahores. After asking around, not only did we discover that our airline is, in fact, called "Pluna," but that we were also at the WRONG airport. Apparently flying to Brazil is not considered international.
3. Upon arrival at the domestic airport, we realize that our flight is actually an hour EARLIER than we had anticipated and we are in serious danger of missing it.
4. Although we were surprised to actually make it out of Argentine and into Montevideo, Uruguay, our layover, our troubles had only begun. After her extensive tour of South American bathrooms, Anjali still found herself struggling to get out of the stall. Finding herself stuck, she hollered to Devon for help. Since Devon's Pu-no days were over, Anjali then had to wait for her rescuer to finish up and release her.
5. With far too many stresses for one day, we decide that coffee is our only remedy. However, we are then faced with currency conversions and how much breakfast we can actually afford. The language barrier posing a problem, we attempt to purchase too much and, with a daunting line forming behind us, are forced to return most of it. Of course the coffee was terrible.
6. We make it to Sao Paulo! Success! Spoken much too soon...after a very expensive and alarmingly long cab ride, we find ourselves in the wrong city on a street with the same name as the one we are looking for. Who knew we had to specify the zip code when ordering our taxi even though we clearly showed our Hostelworld printout with the full address...Having now paid for two unnecessary taxis in one day, we are approximately a million dollars behind budget.
7. We eat pizza, drink wine and indulge in 3 alfahores, though we swore we'd save them for Africa when we'd really need them.
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Argentina - Living like queens
Argentina: November 18-December 6.
Argentina was an instant change of pace from Peru. Upon arrival, we employed Ava - Anjali's sister, who studied abroad in Buenos Aires this past semester - to be our tour guide, beginning with an outstanding meal at La Cabrera. A food lover's dream, this culinary indulgence began with complimentary champagne and chorizo as we waited for a table amidst a large crowd of a hundred watering mouths. Dinner included incredible steaks accompanied by a variety of sauces and side dishes washed down with a bottle of Trapiche Malbec. The week continued with an abundance of fabulous meals, great drinks, raucous night clubs that lasted until the wee hours of the morning, and some healthy sight-seeing around the city. We ventured outside BsAs to Iguazu Falls where we were thoroughly doused in water as we traveled, Indiana Jones style, to the bottom of the Falls. We spent the day walking around the park, finishing at La Garganta del Diablo, (The Devil's Mouth), a massive whirlpool that is arguably the most impressive sight in the park. Although the town of Iguazu was less than impressive, our hostel was more like a resort.
Back in the city, we celebrated Thanksgiving in our lovely apartment in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. Though we had to settle for chicken instead of turkey, we cooked all day and produced an extensive feast including stuffing (with chorizo!), sweet potatoes and apple pie topped with dulce de leche. We enjoyed the leftovers for the next few days...After showing us the best of Buenos Aires, Ava departed and we left for a few days in Mendoza. For two days we biked through vineyards, enjoying a number of wineries and tasting all sorts of wines, liquors, cheeses, olives and chocolates. Although challenging at times, our biking was much improved as we sustained no injuries and Devon did not crash into a wall (even after a dose of absinthe!)We returned to the city and finished off our to-do list, including visiting the modern art museum, La Boca neighborhood, and of course returning to our favorite local parilla, Des Nivel, while staying at our old haunt (from 4 years ago), Tango Backpackers. In short, we adore Argentina and can't wait to return in another 4 years. Or move here permanently.
Best of Argentina:
1. Best hostel - aside from our incredible BsAs apartment, Hostel Inn at Iguazu Falls for its free towels, large pool, parilla and Carnival-style Brazilian show, during which we were invited on stage by a woman clothed in an elaborate thong. We politely declined.
2. Best restaurant - a tie between the posh La Cabrera and perfectly Argentine Des Nivel
3. Best new taste - Trapiche Malbec, Cachavaz alfahores (dulce de leche cookies - so good we bought some for the road) and humito (corn) empanadas
4. Best adventure - biking through Mendoza tipsy off of fine wine and absinthe that we sampled at 11am, and Gran Aventura in Iguazu, drenched by thousands of liters of water
5. Location to return to - Buenos Aires! (for the third time)
6. Best cultural experience - staying up for 24 hours, clubbing with Argentines and watching the sunrise over the water at Caix, a club that stays open until 12pm
7. Best "we're so American" experience - trying to buy a turkey in a BA supermarket and being laughed at, so making stuffing with chorizo, apple pie with dulce de leche and drinking sangria. Just your traditional Argentine Thanksgiving food.
8. Best bar - Milion (mansion converted into posh bar) for Kir Royales and basil daquiris
9. Best local fashion - the rat tail, as sported by both men and women
10. Best reason to never be a vegetarian - Argentine steak for breakfast, steak for lunch, steak for dinner. We watched a vegetarian of 15 years lose her resolution over a carne empanada. Who needs vegetables when the cows are grass fed?
Argentina was an instant change of pace from Peru. Upon arrival, we employed Ava - Anjali's sister, who studied abroad in Buenos Aires this past semester - to be our tour guide, beginning with an outstanding meal at La Cabrera. A food lover's dream, this culinary indulgence began with complimentary champagne and chorizo as we waited for a table amidst a large crowd of a hundred watering mouths. Dinner included incredible steaks accompanied by a variety of sauces and side dishes washed down with a bottle of Trapiche Malbec. The week continued with an abundance of fabulous meals, great drinks, raucous night clubs that lasted until the wee hours of the morning, and some healthy sight-seeing around the city. We ventured outside BsAs to Iguazu Falls where we were thoroughly doused in water as we traveled, Indiana Jones style, to the bottom of the Falls. We spent the day walking around the park, finishing at La Garganta del Diablo, (The Devil's Mouth), a massive whirlpool that is arguably the most impressive sight in the park. Although the town of Iguazu was less than impressive, our hostel was more like a resort.
Back in the city, we celebrated Thanksgiving in our lovely apartment in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. Though we had to settle for chicken instead of turkey, we cooked all day and produced an extensive feast including stuffing (with chorizo!), sweet potatoes and apple pie topped with dulce de leche. We enjoyed the leftovers for the next few days...After showing us the best of Buenos Aires, Ava departed and we left for a few days in Mendoza. For two days we biked through vineyards, enjoying a number of wineries and tasting all sorts of wines, liquors, cheeses, olives and chocolates. Although challenging at times, our biking was much improved as we sustained no injuries and Devon did not crash into a wall (even after a dose of absinthe!)We returned to the city and finished off our to-do list, including visiting the modern art museum, La Boca neighborhood, and of course returning to our favorite local parilla, Des Nivel, while staying at our old haunt (from 4 years ago), Tango Backpackers. In short, we adore Argentina and can't wait to return in another 4 years. Or move here permanently.
Best of Argentina:
1. Best hostel - aside from our incredible BsAs apartment, Hostel Inn at Iguazu Falls for its free towels, large pool, parilla and Carnival-style Brazilian show, during which we were invited on stage by a woman clothed in an elaborate thong. We politely declined.
2. Best restaurant - a tie between the posh La Cabrera and perfectly Argentine Des Nivel
3. Best new taste - Trapiche Malbec, Cachavaz alfahores (dulce de leche cookies - so good we bought some for the road) and humito (corn) empanadas
4. Best adventure - biking through Mendoza tipsy off of fine wine and absinthe that we sampled at 11am, and Gran Aventura in Iguazu, drenched by thousands of liters of water
5. Location to return to - Buenos Aires! (for the third time)
6. Best cultural experience - staying up for 24 hours, clubbing with Argentines and watching the sunrise over the water at Caix, a club that stays open until 12pm
7. Best "we're so American" experience - trying to buy a turkey in a BA supermarket and being laughed at, so making stuffing with chorizo, apple pie with dulce de leche and drinking sangria. Just your traditional Argentine Thanksgiving food.
8. Best bar - Milion (mansion converted into posh bar) for Kir Royales and basil daquiris
9. Best local fashion - the rat tail, as sported by both men and women
10. Best reason to never be a vegetarian - Argentine steak for breakfast, steak for lunch, steak for dinner. We watched a vegetarian of 15 years lose her resolution over a carne empanada. Who needs vegetables when the cows are grass fed?
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Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Adios Peru
Having learned the hard way which bus companies to trust, we had a much more successful ride to Arequipa from Puno. In short, we toured Arequipa, trekked in Colca Canyon and returned to Lima via Cusco. Back in Lima, we began saying our goodbyes to Peru including dining on Lima´s finest culinary offerings. We actually enjoyed anticuchos - grilled cow hearts on a stick - as well as more ceviche and fish dishes at local joints. Accompanied by Paulo, one of the owners of our hostel, we got the local scoop on what to do and, most importantly, what to eat. To conclude our Peruvian adventure, we have compiled a ¨Best Of¨ list...
1. Best hostel: Hostel Kokopelli in Lima
2. Best restaurant: ceviche in Lima at a hole-in-the-wall market stand in Barranco neighborhood
3. Best new taste: the surprisingly delicious anticuchos
4. Best adventure: Machu Picchu trek, obviously
5. Best new friend/local resource: Paulo (our BFF from Hostel Kokopelli)
6. Location to return to: Cusco and the Inca trail
7. Best cultural experience: meals with our homestay family on Isla Amantani, Lago Titicaca
8. Best "we´re so American" experience: bus to Arequipa from Cabanaconde (Colca Canyon) - zero personal space, lots of jostling, and a rendition of "Happy Birthday" playing on the radio
9. Best bar: Kokopelli´s bar and Paulo´s spicy pisco cocktail
10. Best local fashion: Amantani ensemble complete with embroidered blouses, skirts, jackets, belts and shawls
1. Best hostel: Hostel Kokopelli in Lima
2. Best restaurant: ceviche in Lima at a hole-in-the-wall market stand in Barranco neighborhood
3. Best new taste: the surprisingly delicious anticuchos
4. Best adventure: Machu Picchu trek, obviously
5. Best new friend/local resource: Paulo (our BFF from Hostel Kokopelli)
6. Location to return to: Cusco and the Inca trail
7. Best cultural experience: meals with our homestay family on Isla Amantani, Lago Titicaca
8. Best "we´re so American" experience: bus to Arequipa from Cabanaconde (Colca Canyon) - zero personal space, lots of jostling, and a rendition of "Happy Birthday" playing on the radio
9. Best bar: Kokopelli´s bar and Paulo´s spicy pisco cocktail
10. Best local fashion: Amantani ensemble complete with embroidered blouses, skirts, jackets, belts and shawls
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