Navigating Namibia with Nomad

With long faces we departed Cape Town for a 26 day camping tour. We drove through and camped in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Kruger National Park.

Namibia:

1. Spending the night at and canoeing down Orange River, the border between South Africa and Namibia.

2. Crossing the Namibian border in heat as high as 40 degree Celcius (that's a million degrees Farenheit).

3. Watching the sun set over Fish River Canyon with complimentary aluminum mug of white wine from a box.

4. Drive through Naukluft Park and wake up to watch the sunrise on Soussusvlei Dunes, waking up at 3:45. Get in touch with inner child by running down Dune 45. Create Dune 46 with amount of sand in our shoes. Explore Soussou Flay, white plain covered with skeletons of 600 year old trees, with desert guide.

5. Seeing the Tropic of Capricorn, moon landscape and hundreds of flamingos at Walvis Bay on our way to Swakopmund.

6. Hope to skydive over dunes. Effort thwarted by broken plane. A *TIA moment, one of many.

7. Explore Spitzkopf, mountainous rocks rising out of the desert sand.

8. Two nights in Etosha National Park where we saw lions at night as well as drinking from a watering hole, a rhino, giraffe, zebra, to name a few.

Botswana:

1. Cross into Botswana and spend 2 nights 'bush camping' in the Okavango Delta, arriving by mokoro canoe.

2. Bush walks siting hippos and elephants.

3. Arrive at Chobe National Park, take boat "cruise" (more like floating raft) down Chobe River, watch hippos, buffalo, baboons, crocodiles and elephants play in the water.

Zimbabwe:

1. Take in the spectacular views of Victoria Falls, getting drenched by torrential spray from the falls.

2. River rafting down the Zambezi River, the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Kruger National Park, South Africa:

1. Numerous game drives and siting rhinos, hippos, baboon, green mamba, elephant, giraffe, warthog, zebra and the highlight, a leopard lounging on a tree branch next to the remains of an impala lunch.

2. Panoramic route back to Johannesburg, stop along various points of Blyde River Canyon including God's Window, Lucky Potholes and Three Pinacles.

Nomad Tour: A Day In The Life

Wake up at asscrack of dawn to "Vivi!" shouted by Leo, Vivi's eccentric, Argentine husband. Roll over and groan. Pack up wet tent in zombie-like state. Daily cup of Ricoffy, gagging as we suck it down. Need for caffeine trumps taste of tar. Fight over seats on Frank. End up squished between seat and large Samsonite suitcase. Drive 10 hours, stopping only for pee breaks (Question: Should we bring the toilet paper? Answer: Yes. Always.), sights along the way, and so half of us can smoke. All done in zombie-like stupor because woken up from nap. Cross border. Fill out border crossing form in a million degree heat, everyone asking the same questions (How many days will we be here? What's my passport number?). Back on Frank. Large suitcase falls on face. Muscles have attrofied. Read trashy romance novel called "Blazing Star" out of desperation. Enjoy it. Stop for lunch by side of road in middle of nowhere. Sandwiches again. Back on Frank. Dirty, sweaty, smelly. Arrive at campsite. Fight for best tent spot. Fight for tent without broken zipper. Set up moldy tent. Find pool, dive in, watching out for frogs, bugs and cobras. Fight for shower that has no pressure, no hot water, crawling with bugs, and/or floods. Put back on same clothes. Douse self in bug spray. Feel greasy again. Happy hour! Break open bottle of red wine. Pour liberally into aluminum cups. Dinner is served with the following statement: "Okay guys, as usual, our dinner is ready. We have something on the table. Self service. Tonight we have kudu. My pleasure." Tinike (crabby old Dutch woman) pushes to front of line. Nightly question: WHAT is she doing on this tour? Rest of tour members roll eyes and wait. After delicious meal, nightly meeting commences. Four hours later, we've discussed issues such as: fair seating on bus, number of mattresses allotted to each person, wake up time, fair chores, with Johannes (tour guide) repeating everything at least three times. Finish bottle of wine. Dishes. Retreat to tent or bar. In bed by 8:30 so we can wake up at ass crack of dawn. Repeat.

Highlights Reel:

1. Upgrading in Windhoek to actual dorm room, only to have Devon sat on by German lady in the middle of the night. Devon's loud yelp wakes whole room.

2. Devon jumps out of seat to take picture of one of the Big 5. We've spotted a rhino! In her enthusiasm, zooms in on the first grey shape she saw and takes picture. Upon later inspection, realizes her first rhino is, in fact, a rock.

3. Given Okavango Names by our mokoro poler, Action (aka Josiah Jackson, aka DJ Snoggy). Quote: "Anjali shall be Star. Devon will be Planet Okavango."

4. Another night of thunderous snoring ringing throughout campsite drives us, quote: "Back to the bar?!"

5. Disaster, as usual: Changing African currency into dollars. Note to self: bring personal US bank on future travels.

6. Trying to book flight to Egypt. Midway through, prices escalate. Devon books her flight. Anjali momentarily stuck in Southern Africa forever because refuses to pay the extra $100. Has to book on Devon's computer because it hasn't registered the price change. **TIFA.

7. Flooding tent in Okavango Delta. Everything wet. Irrepairable stench of tennis shoes like old, moldy couch.

8. In moment of genius, Anjali names our mokoro Barack the Boat. Devon takes a turn polling and exclaims,"I can't do this!" Anjali: You can only say yes we can on Barack the Boat!"

* This Is Africa

** This Is F*&$#@! Africa

This Is Africa

Our sojourn through continent number two began after a turbulent flight from Sao Paulo to Johannesburg. Upon arrival, customs officials took it upon themselves to thoroughly remove and search all contents of our backpacks, including our personal pharmacy and feminine products. "What do I do with this?" asks the clueless inspector. Devon: "YOU don't do anything with that." Anjali, on death bed: "It's a feminine product." The inspector continued to open a capsule of white powder (looks like coke, actually acidophilous) and dumps its contents uncerimoniously onto the table next to our underwear and six months of first aid supplies. After retrieving our bags, we waited for our airport pickup, uncertainly standing on a curb waiting for a white car. Turns out all cars in South Africa are white. During the flight, Anjali was hit with the nausea and intenstinal problems that would define her next few days. Needless to say, waiting on the curb was a testiment to her will power: Will I get sick now or can I wait until I safely make it to a bathroom? Ironically, a bird decided that this was the perfect moment to relieve himself on poor Anjali's unsuspecting head. Barely mustering a "Little help?" plea to Devon, Anj lets Devon deal with it and was then bedridden for two days. Though a rocky start, our time in South Africa improved dramatically over the next three weeks.



Best of Jo'burg:



1. The Apartheid Museum - two hours was not enough time to soak in all the information and history this incredible museum has to offer.



2. Tour of Soweto Township with our guide, Mandla, who grew up there. A reality check in terms of how far South Africa has come and how far it still has to go.



3. The Lion and Rhino Park, better known to us as the Lhino and Ryan Park. Once you say it this way, you can never say it correctly again. Highlights include playing with lion cubs (Devon sustains injury. Has scar as proof.), the Vultures Restaurant (a smelling pile of bones) and being introduced to the Professor of Ugly, the hideous Maribou Stork.



After our disasterous flight into Africa, our next trip to Cape Town was uneventful. We had the pleasure of staying with the family of a friend of a friend, Nazerine, who treated us like royalty and accepted as family. After weeks of hostel-jumping, staying in a real home was a welcome change. Nazerine, her sister, Atoofa, and their friends Brando and York showed us the best of Cape life: sights, nightlife and food. Due to their hospitality and fun-loving nature, our initial 10 days in Cape Town turned into 3 weeks.



Best of Cape Town:



1. Climbing Table Mountain and taking in the 360 view of the entire region.



2. Biking through the winelands - Stellenbosch and Franshhoek. Cape Town's winelands give Napa Valley a run for its money.



3. Seeing African penguins in Simon's Town. No snow in sight.



4. Being official tourists and taking the Red Bus City Tour of Cape Town. Sitting atop an open air, double decker bus, visiting such sights as the District 6 Museum, Castle of Good Hope, Camps Bay beach and driving along the lovely coastline.



5. Spending an afternoon at Clifton Beach, baking in the sun, surrounded by beautiful Capetonians.



6. Climbing Lion's Head on Christmas Eve, enjoying a picnic at the top and listening to Christmas carols on the Blackberry.



7. Treating ourselves to high tea at the uber swanky Mount Nelson hostel on Christmas Day. Then pretending we're guests and spending the entire afternoon by the pool. Turns out we stayed in Room 207.



8. Drinks at Neighbourhood or Cubana. Clubbing at Hemisphere or Tiger Tiger.



9. Having a braai (South Africa's version of the barbeque).

10. Sailing to Robben Island and having historical tour led by ex-inmates.

Highlights Reel:



1. After spending our first 2 days in Jo'burg in bed, we thought our first days in Cape Town we'd be up and at 'em. Our friends made it a point of showing us a great time our first night...We didn't emerge from our room until 2pm the next day. And ate brunch a 4.

2. Eating the game platter at our favorite haunt, Arnold's. We sampled crocodile, springbok, ostrich and our favorite, warthog ribs. We dined their so many times we started receiving complementary bottles of wine.

3. Going to the swanky club, Hemisphere, in the best of our backpacker's attire. Bouncer asks Naz why she couldn't get her friends better shoes. Random man to Anjali: "Where are you from? I can tell you're not from Cape Town." Anj: "What, the shoes? I've heard this line before."

4. Looking so comfortable at Arnold's that we were mistaken as hostesses. Results in meeting the cousins John and Jon Pierre, who regaled us with stories from their home countries, England and France, and bought us dinner.

5. After our free dinner, we met Brando for cosmo's at posh bar, Asoka. Quote of the night goes to Brando: "Three rounds of cosmos: 360 rand. One round of chocolate cake shots: 60 rand. Drinks at Asoka: Priceless." Next morning at brunch, "Dev, how much was the bill last night?" Devon: "How would I know?" Brando and Anj: "You said, and I quote, 'I got it guys!'"

6. Devon wakes up on Christmas morning to a large photo of Taylor Lautner hung from the bunk above her, setting the tone of the day. Chistmas dinner at Cape Town Backpackers with fellow hostel guests sporting outrageous hats. Devon as a pirate, Anj in a Pamela Anderson-esque, porn star hat.

7. New Year's at Brando's. Devon records music video unbeknownst to participants, Anj, Brando and York. Coming soon to Youtube. Next morning, stuffed in a truck, in the same clothes, for a night in the beachside town, Hermanus. Persuading woman to do our laundry in exchange for a dinner bell from San Francisco. Hitting up a club named Bojangles, frequented by the 18 and younger. Devon, mistaken as a "colored girl," was a hit with the male crowd.

8. Spending 3 hours to upload 17 photos at Geek Cafe. Check them out at www.photobucket.com/devon87
Out of severe boredom, Anj changes her profile status to "touring the world's worst computers." Is then promptly friended by the internet cafe attendent.

9. Suicidal Blackberry leads to change of pace in our lives appropriate for Africa.

10. Leaving Cape Town on a truck called Frank. Spending the nex 26 days on Frank.

Desperate times.....

1. Going commando, not out of choice but because of lack of underwear.

2. Blow drying underwear, so you don't have to go commando.

3. Using pink and fuzzy hostel blanket as a towel, so we can wash the travel towels that smell like mold.

4. Running through torrential downpour in Buenos Aires, seeking Bloody Mary fixings after staying out clubbing all night, so can enjoy Ava's last full day in B.A.

5. Pandora-ing Christmas carols on Blackberry multiple times, most notably at the top of Lion's Head in Cape Town.

6. Chicken instead of Turkey on Thanksgiving.

7. Seeing Lua Nova in Sao Paulo, instead of sightseeing.

8. Washing underwear at Namibian bushman camp.

9. Taking a fiber pill. And then taking 3 when 2 no longer work!

10. Reading "Blazing Star" and "Breaking Dawn" on a truck called "Frank."

11. Wearing New Years dress for 48 hours and every laundry day without underwear.

12. Washing Calvin Klein/Gap bra twice in 3 months. Only HAVING one bra each.

13. Losing 1 of 5 pairs of underwear. Leads to bigger freak-out than having ipod stolen.

14. Tears over leaving single pair of pants in bushman hut.

15. Sleeping on floor of hostel. Results in getting face sat on. Still better to getting rained on.

16. Sleeping in threadbare cocoon with myriad coats draped over us. i.e. using rain coat as blanket. Comes in handy when tent floods.

17. Three of us lying naked in tent on trek to Machu Picchu because clothes need to dry.





..... lead to desperate measures.