Navigating Namibia with Nomad

With long faces we departed Cape Town for a 26 day camping tour. We drove through and camped in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Kruger National Park.

Namibia:

1. Spending the night at and canoeing down Orange River, the border between South Africa and Namibia.

2. Crossing the Namibian border in heat as high as 40 degree Celcius (that's a million degrees Farenheit).

3. Watching the sun set over Fish River Canyon with complimentary aluminum mug of white wine from a box.

4. Drive through Naukluft Park and wake up to watch the sunrise on Soussusvlei Dunes, waking up at 3:45. Get in touch with inner child by running down Dune 45. Create Dune 46 with amount of sand in our shoes. Explore Soussou Flay, white plain covered with skeletons of 600 year old trees, with desert guide.

5. Seeing the Tropic of Capricorn, moon landscape and hundreds of flamingos at Walvis Bay on our way to Swakopmund.

6. Hope to skydive over dunes. Effort thwarted by broken plane. A *TIA moment, one of many.

7. Explore Spitzkopf, mountainous rocks rising out of the desert sand.

8. Two nights in Etosha National Park where we saw lions at night as well as drinking from a watering hole, a rhino, giraffe, zebra, to name a few.

Botswana:

1. Cross into Botswana and spend 2 nights 'bush camping' in the Okavango Delta, arriving by mokoro canoe.

2. Bush walks siting hippos and elephants.

3. Arrive at Chobe National Park, take boat "cruise" (more like floating raft) down Chobe River, watch hippos, buffalo, baboons, crocodiles and elephants play in the water.

Zimbabwe:

1. Take in the spectacular views of Victoria Falls, getting drenched by torrential spray from the falls.

2. River rafting down the Zambezi River, the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Kruger National Park, South Africa:

1. Numerous game drives and siting rhinos, hippos, baboon, green mamba, elephant, giraffe, warthog, zebra and the highlight, a leopard lounging on a tree branch next to the remains of an impala lunch.

2. Panoramic route back to Johannesburg, stop along various points of Blyde River Canyon including God's Window, Lucky Potholes and Three Pinacles.

Nomad Tour: A Day In The Life

Wake up at asscrack of dawn to "Vivi!" shouted by Leo, Vivi's eccentric, Argentine husband. Roll over and groan. Pack up wet tent in zombie-like state. Daily cup of Ricoffy, gagging as we suck it down. Need for caffeine trumps taste of tar. Fight over seats on Frank. End up squished between seat and large Samsonite suitcase. Drive 10 hours, stopping only for pee breaks (Question: Should we bring the toilet paper? Answer: Yes. Always.), sights along the way, and so half of us can smoke. All done in zombie-like stupor because woken up from nap. Cross border. Fill out border crossing form in a million degree heat, everyone asking the same questions (How many days will we be here? What's my passport number?). Back on Frank. Large suitcase falls on face. Muscles have attrofied. Read trashy romance novel called "Blazing Star" out of desperation. Enjoy it. Stop for lunch by side of road in middle of nowhere. Sandwiches again. Back on Frank. Dirty, sweaty, smelly. Arrive at campsite. Fight for best tent spot. Fight for tent without broken zipper. Set up moldy tent. Find pool, dive in, watching out for frogs, bugs and cobras. Fight for shower that has no pressure, no hot water, crawling with bugs, and/or floods. Put back on same clothes. Douse self in bug spray. Feel greasy again. Happy hour! Break open bottle of red wine. Pour liberally into aluminum cups. Dinner is served with the following statement: "Okay guys, as usual, our dinner is ready. We have something on the table. Self service. Tonight we have kudu. My pleasure." Tinike (crabby old Dutch woman) pushes to front of line. Nightly question: WHAT is she doing on this tour? Rest of tour members roll eyes and wait. After delicious meal, nightly meeting commences. Four hours later, we've discussed issues such as: fair seating on bus, number of mattresses allotted to each person, wake up time, fair chores, with Johannes (tour guide) repeating everything at least three times. Finish bottle of wine. Dishes. Retreat to tent or bar. In bed by 8:30 so we can wake up at ass crack of dawn. Repeat.

Highlights Reel:

1. Upgrading in Windhoek to actual dorm room, only to have Devon sat on by German lady in the middle of the night. Devon's loud yelp wakes whole room.

2. Devon jumps out of seat to take picture of one of the Big 5. We've spotted a rhino! In her enthusiasm, zooms in on the first grey shape she saw and takes picture. Upon later inspection, realizes her first rhino is, in fact, a rock.

3. Given Okavango Names by our mokoro poler, Action (aka Josiah Jackson, aka DJ Snoggy). Quote: "Anjali shall be Star. Devon will be Planet Okavango."

4. Another night of thunderous snoring ringing throughout campsite drives us, quote: "Back to the bar?!"

5. Disaster, as usual: Changing African currency into dollars. Note to self: bring personal US bank on future travels.

6. Trying to book flight to Egypt. Midway through, prices escalate. Devon books her flight. Anjali momentarily stuck in Southern Africa forever because refuses to pay the extra $100. Has to book on Devon's computer because it hasn't registered the price change. **TIFA.

7. Flooding tent in Okavango Delta. Everything wet. Irrepairable stench of tennis shoes like old, moldy couch.

8. In moment of genius, Anjali names our mokoro Barack the Boat. Devon takes a turn polling and exclaims,"I can't do this!" Anjali: You can only say yes we can on Barack the Boat!"

* This Is Africa

** This Is F*&$#@! Africa